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Clasament Anvelope AT - Duster AT tire rankings

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Nota: Daca linkul preimei postari nu se mai poate updata, atunci cautati ultima versiune de clasament pe paginile urmatoare.


Am decis ca sa trec clasamentul de anvelope AT si aici, beside Facebook pentru ca feedbackul nou e un element important in mentinerea si updatarea clasamentului. Acest clasament se bazeaza pe experienta personala cu KO2, AT3S, AT-SA si 771, alaturi de feedback in special de la posesori de Duster (RO, UK, India) care au avut cel putin 2 modele de anvelope AT pana acum.  Ultimul filon de feedback este cel de pe net in special pt uzura, franare ud, iarna si rezistenta. Testele si analiza au inceput anul trecut cu testele pe KO2, in special testele extinse iarna. Overall am investit mult timp si resurse ca sa inteleg cum se coporta si ce face fiecare centrimetru de pe o anvelopa AT.

In Concluzie: Sunt 2 tipuri de aderenta pt ATurile care se gasesc la Duster:

1. De frictiune si suprafata

2. De "sapare" si tractiune mica adancime.

Din cauza ca Dusterul e foarte usor, prima categorie este superioara in noroi si pe asfalt iar cealalta e superioara pe grohotis, viteza in offroad, praf, nisip. Revenind la note, nu ar trebui sa le privim doar ca note la subiectul Limba Romana, ci si ca note de diferentiere intre diferite modele de anvelope (*o anvelopa o poate impinge putin pe alta in functie de calitati, defecte si zone de risc).

Daca vreti sa participati la note, incercati sa faceti comparatie cu o alta anvelopa AT pe care ati testat-o sau ati condus pe traseu cu ea, scoateti skillul soferului din ecuatie, amintirile cu adrenalina si incercati sa nu fiti pasional fata de anvelopa proprie. Fiecare anvelopa are punctele ei forte si sunt sigur ca si alegerea voastra le are pe cele care le aveti voi nevoie. Fun fact - chiar si acelasi model de anvelopa se poate comporta diferit pe 2 masini in exact acleasi loc in offroad daca intra cu o incarcare imperceptibil diferita de noroi sau daca soferul apasa doar putin mai tare sau mai incet pe acceleratie.

Oricum ne uitam la clasament, niciodata nu o sa fim 100% perfecti pe note, +/- o sa existe din cauza la presiunea diferita, temperatura, terenul, varsta anvelopei, generatia, anotimpurile, piciorul soferului, skill, incarcarea din portbagaj... etc. Important e ca acest clasament sa fie o baza de analiza actualizata pt cei care vor sa isi aleaga o anvelopa AT care sa o foloseasca si pe asfalt si in offroad. Restul depinde de ei. Hope it helps


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Editat de Cain
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Foarte interesant. M-am uitat la unele modele, nu au disponibila dimensiunea standard pt Duster, de ex Cooper de pe primul loc. Sau nu am cautat eu bine? care ar fi varianta de dimensiune la Cooper care ar merge la Duster?

Editat de cornelt

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Testare Cooper pe iarba Aplina si putin morcov la alunecare cu spatele. Fiind cu tractiune pe suprafata m-au surprins placut, ma asteptam sa alunece mai mult. 

cornelt - intradevar nu se prea gasesc unele pe 65 sau altele pe 70. Principiile sunt aceleasi totusi. La poza 2 din prima postare - cea cu numerele - textul e asta:


With the 500 members mark being reached today in the DT&T Group, I've decided to release the Duster's AT tires review chart. Now, I wanted to go with 70 .vs 65 because it is 1cm more in diameter and that cm could be better deflated in offroad for more grip. Still, 70 is illegal for Duster, thus be careful how you handle this size in your country. Also 70's will rob from you the feel of around 8Hp when doing starts from a stationary position. But again, the benefits in offroad are higher and it does fit without modification. Still in general the ratings do apply for 65 too, if you could find the size of the tire as 65. Some manufacturers of ATs don’t have 65 others do not have 70.
The Duster AT ratings chart information is WIP and it is compiled from personal experience or from the Group members experience. If your personal knowledge shows something different or a new risk please shout - I will update the grades accordingly to your info. Internet feedback was also used, though it is quite rare to get decent feedback online especially at the tire size and weight of the Duster, so you do need to read between the lines a lot. This is why I decided to do this chart, because the internet feedback is useless for 215/R16 ATs on light SUVs. Also more official internet feedback is old, filtered or sponsored, so rarely you can find something useful.
As you can see ATs have progressed a lot in the last 5 years and it seems that 2 main design patterns have been selected for both AT tire blocks and sips: the Z patterns and the C pattern for blocs and the straight sipe vs the undulated sipe. Some tire blocks are V walled others are straight walled, some have stone ejectors others don't. Some tires have straight water evacuation lines others have them zigzagged. Some retain a central rubber fragmented line others go for more open spaces on the middle of the tire. Some ATs for for a sharp edge edge for their tire, others go for a more round edge. Usually a sharper edge also has larger spacing between rows of blocks.
NOTE: Don't be lazy and DO deflate your tires in offroad to 1,7 ATM (BFG/Falken/General) - 1.9 ATM (Rest). Better traction and less punctures!!!
Now let me explain what each of them do:
The Tire Sipe - Around 25% they improve traction for driving in snowy, wet or icy conditions and also remove heat better. The BFG like straight sips seem to go deep and improve gravel and ice traction and they handle better a deep cut. The undulating S sips are better in the rest of the scenarios (Mud & Snow) and are not cut as deep in the tire. The Straight sips cut and bite while the S ones help with friction traction and help more with sipe lateral traction.
Tire water evacuation lanes – These can be straight true (see true them) or zigzagged or nonexistent like in the BFG case. The longer the lane is the larger the mud line is connected true them the faster it will be ejected in a spin. V edged blocks also help. Some lanes are more zigzagged (Toyo Open Country), some are quite straight (Nexen) and some have the blocks as a mild interaction. More Z is more grip, excessive cornering on those lanes will give mud more places to stick and it would not clear at slow speeds not it would provide better friction mud to mud, they wilt run the tire into a mud slick (BFG).
Central Rubber Rib – Now this is straight, cut at an angle, etc, this is especially good on asphalt for wet breaking and comfort. It is not particular ideal for gravel, thus BFGs do not have it.
Shoulders of the tire – they can be round (AT3), or they can be sharp open edges (KO2). The round ones are designed for surface traction while the sharp ones are designed for bite-dig traction and are also better in faster offroad competitions. The problem on Duster is that the sharp ones don’t sink enough for deep bite, they make a lot of noise, they slow the car when turning and they ware faster. They look great though, but you don’t have the car weight to make good use of them.
Cooper AT3 vs. BFG KO2 image explained:
1. 2 Straight slick wall-lug V lines – helps with better evacuating mud. The slight Z bends help with mild mud traction.
2. Angled central main rib – It tries to do its best between two worlds and succeeds on most chapters. Its problems would be gravel at high speed.
3. The tire lines - are only mildly zigzagged. This helps ejecting mud as the mud has a better connection to each other on a bigger mass and less places to stick.
4. Small Rubber rib bridge – designed to help with wet asphalt breaking (ABS) and comfort. It looks odd but it is a case of function vs beauty.
5. Straight and Snake like sips on the same line – the best of both worlds. Straight is better for avoiding chipping and bite while the S for mud and wet.
6. Serrated edges - are designed to retain better mud and provide better mud to mud traction at the exterior of the tire (*see the sharp lug edges compared with the central straight lines).
7. Reinforced external bridge – helps on asphalt at high speed turns and also protects the external lugs from chipping. Don’t worry about water drainage, the main water is evacuated behind the tire and not all towards the sides.
8. Round tire edge shoulder – designed for better ware, turning, and surface traction.
9. Sharp open edges shoulder – designed to bite under the surface. Good on heavier cars. Good at high-speed offroading.
10. Straight sips – good on ice and gravel, they bite and pull. On the rest of the scenarios they are not exceptional.
11. C shaped lugs – Very good for high speed offroading, gravel and ice. They do retain mud and are more orientated for digging traction rather than surface traction.
12. Open central rib – this helps on gravel, snow, and grass. This rib bites, so again it is orientated for dig traction. It also does a lot of noise (vibrations) and it is mediocre on surface traction. This is also the key part in poor hard-breaking wet performance to the point of risk.
13. Heavily zigzagged lanes – they do not clear as well mud as straighter ones but are better at high-speed offroading or drier offroad roads.
14. Stone ejectors – if the walls of the lugs are not V shaped, then you might want to have stone ejectors. Lugs with straight walls will collect stones. 
15. Larger lugs and generally 3 cm more wide rubber section per same road section.
16. Smaller lugs great for gravel & rocks. The C lug design and light car weight prohibits good mud performance. Though the BFGs allow for better controlled slip and more fun.
Good links:…/


Editat de Cain

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Dintre cele expuse de tine mi se pare interesant Nokian Rotiiva AT (exista si pe dimensiunea de fabrica 215/65 R16). Vad ca a primit nota 10 la capitolul "iarna". Din ce stiu eu cred ca are si muntele cu fulgul de zapada.

Eu stau in dubiu daca urmatorul set de anvelope sa fie Rotiiva AT sau Weatherproof SUV. Mentioneaz ca anvelopele le tin tot anul pe masina; in prezent tot Nokian am pea ea, si anume WR SUV 3.

Ce parere ai ? Mentionez ca ma intereseaza in primul rand comportamentul pe timp de iarna (adica pe zapada, gheata, etc.)

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